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lee1

setting carb pilot screws on the bandit

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Ive had a tinker with the bike this morning

as said there was a slight popping/like blowing back through the carbs on me bike

from cold start it would stay there till the bike was running hot

I know my bike has had some carb work,its on a service sheet I got with the bike

first off I checked the pilot screws,no4 carb was around 4 turns out

no3 around 2.5
no2 around 3
no1 around 3

so ive followed what was put in that post
screwed all the pilot screws in till slightly seated

turned them all out 3 turns,run the bike till it got hot very hot
then just slightley adjusted them all again

and its worked theres no popping through the carbs what so ever Very Happy

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cheers all thumbsthumbs

always good to share info thumbs

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nice post thats exactly what appens on my b12
so let me see i have read this right turns the screws in until seated then back off 3 turns ??

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@paul65 wrote:
nice post thats exactly what appens on my b12
so let me see i have read this right turns the screws in until seated then back off 3 turns ??
yes mate thats right,but on the second gen bandit with the pair system its normal to have a very slight popping from cold

I did confirm this yesterday with a lad I know who is a suzuki technician

if you get rid of the standatd zorst,then its best to have the carbs sync,pilot screws adusted just to be on the safe side

thumbsthumbsthumbs

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found this on the net to,but ive also been told the best way to check the plugs

is go for a run,and check them when there hot,due to how advance the fuel is these

ie,its not leaded any more dont know how true that is maybe trebor will add something hes a god at setting bikes up

heres the link to a plug chart

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

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my next question is
is it best to take carbs of and adjust the pilots then refit
cos i have tried to adjust in situ and it seems to easy to chew the screw head up so i bottled it
any advice much appreciated...


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@paul65 wrote:
my next question is
is it best to take carbs of and adjust the pilots then refit
cos i have tried to adjust in situ and it seems to easy to chew the screw head up so i bottled it
any advice much appreciated...




if any of the pilots are tight or stuck in any way drop the bank of carbs out and get at the pilot screw properly with a quality driver. ir you strip the head you are in a world of pain... Sad

i had a seized one and in the end had to carefuly drill and tap it and fix an allen screw in there and just screwd it out, mind u it was pretty seized in there...

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@paul65 wrote:
nice post thats exactly what appens on my b12
so let me see i have read this right turns the screws in until seated then back off 3 turns ??

not three turns out on yours if it is a mark1 1200 Bandit, lightly screw the Pilot jet in till it seats then screw out 1 3/4 turns, then balance the carbs to get the optimum set up. thumbs

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@lee wrote:
found this on the net to,but ive also been told the best way to check the plugs

is go for a run,and check them when there hot,due to how advance the fuel is these

ie,its not leaded any more dont know how true that is maybe trebor will add something hes a god at setting bikes up

heres the link to a plug chart

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

thats right lee, always get the bike to working temp first, off choke completly, them decide what rpm you want to check the fueling at, take her out on a bit of dual caridge way, armed with your plug spanner, get up to the rpm in top and hold her there for a quarter of a mile or so, dont suddenly accelerate or you get a quirt of juice which will spoil things, then hit the kill switch and dip the clutch to stop the motor turning over, coast to a stop and pull the plug and note the colour, this will give you a gud indication on how shes fueling.
great link on the plug chart by the way Lee, thumbs

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@lee wrote:
found this on the net to,but ive also been told the best way to check the plugs

is go for a run,and check them when there hot,due to how advance the fuel is these

ie,its not leaded any more dont know how true that is maybe trebor will add something hes a god at setting bikes up

heres the link to a plug chart

http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html

thats right lee, always get the bike to working temp first, off choke completly, them decide what rpm you want to check the fueling at, take her out on a bit of dual caridge way, armed with your plug spanner, get up to the rpm in top and hold her there for a quarter of a mile or so, dont suddenly accelerate or you get a quirt of juice which will spoil things, then hit the kill switch and dip the clutch to stop the motor turning over, coast to a stop and pull the plug and note the colour, this will give you a gud indication on how shes fueling.
great link on the plug chart by the way Lee, thumbs
God you guys are clever and thank god you members of this forum the knowledge is just second to none thumbs

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@paul65 wrote:
nice post thats exactly what appens on my b12
so let me see i have read this right turns the screws in until seated then back off 3 turns ??

not three turns out on yours if it is a mark1 1200 Bandit, lightly screw the Pilot jet in till it seats then screw out 1 3/4 turns, then balance the carbs to get the optimum set up. thumbs


yes it is a mk1 so its only 1 n 3/4 turns just to clarify
thats all 4 carbs

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bike all sorted now set the pilot screws all the same
and ballanced the carbs they were all over on the place
runs like a dream now party

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@Davehutch wrote:
@paul65 wrote:
bike all sorted now set the pilot screws all the same
and ballanced the carbs they were all over on the place
runs like a dream now party
thumbs
Well done mate thumbs

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Hi i have a 2005 1200 bandit which had a scorpian end can and a kn air filter . This combination has made the miss fire in the carbs really bad and trying to keep the bike at 30mph smoothly is imposssible.
After reading on the forum i replaced the air filter with a standard one which made a slight improvement so i have shimmed the needles by 0.5mm and balanced the carbs which has made 70% better,the air screws have now been backed out 3.75 turns out from being fully in this has made the bike the best it has ever been.The exhaust still pops a bit when you are off the throttle but not to sure if this is because i running with the baffle removed

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@pikey wrote:
Hi i have a 2005 1200 bandit which had a scorpian end can and a kn air filter . This combination has made the miss fire in the carbs really bad and trying to keep the bike at 30mph smoothly is imposssible.
After reading on the forum i replaced the air filter with a standard one which made a slight improvement so i have shimmed the needles by 0.5mm and balanced the carbs which has made 70% better,the air screws have now been backed out 3.75 turns out from being fully in this has made the bike the best it has ever been.The exhaust still pops a bit when you are off the throttle but not to sure if this is because i running with the baffle removed

getting rid of the pair system stops alot of the popping thumbs

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