Grumpyowl 0 Posted February 2, 2012 Just got some new R&G crash bungs for my Hayabusa (ebay bargain).I've got to drill a hole in my perfect fairings Question is would you drill from the face side or the inside of the panel ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fr499y 0 Posted February 2, 2012 Neither. But to answer your question, from outside in would give a smoother cut, but inside out will hide if you slip.. I thought R&G's didnt need any fairing mods to fit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dick65 0 Posted February 2, 2012 most kits you dont need to drill you checked the instructions Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichardH 0 Posted February 2, 2012 drill holes in your fairing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
goferit 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @fr499y wrote:Neither. But to answer your question, from outside in would give a smoother cut, but inside out will hide if you slip.. I thought R&G's didnt need any fairing mods to fit That's as I understood as well...Check before you drill I'd rather go without than drill the fairing.. but that's your decision.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bladerunner 0 Posted February 2, 2012 its easy once you've built up the courage to do it. first thing to do is take the fairing panel off,then loosen the bolt that the crash bung is going to replace.paint the end of the bolt with some paint that doesnt dry too quickly like household gloss then replace the fairing panel.next bits a bit fiddly,get your hand behind the fairing and unscrew the bolt till it touches and marks the fairing.take the fairing off and drill a small ( 2-3mm) hole through the fairing in the middle of the mark.(this is where my engineering apprenticeship comes in,measure twice cut once) put the panel back on and look through the pilot hole to make sure everything lines up.finally remove the panel again and drill through from the outside to the inside with a hole saw,make sure you have the hole saw spinning quite fast and dont force it through ,let it cut its way through.trim the edges of the hole up with a stanley knife and away you go. done it a few times and every time it's certainly stressful but when you do it you wonder what you were panicking aboutthe reason you dont go from the inside is if there are any stickers on the outside where your drilling your likely to rip them as the saw breaks through Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpyowl 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @bladerunner wrote:its easy once you've built up the courage to do it. first thing to do is take the fairing panel off,then loosen the bolt that the crash bung is going to replace.paint the end of the bolt with some paint that doesnt dry too quickly like household gloss then replace the fairing panel.next bits a bit fiddly,get your hand behind the fairing and unscrew the bolt till it touches and marks the fairing.take the fairing off and drill a small ( 2-3mm) hole through the fairing in the middle of the mark.(this is where my engineering apprenticeship comes in,measure twice cut once) put the panel back on and look through the pilot hole to make sure everything lines up.finally remove the panel again and drill through from the outside to the inside with a hole saw,make sure you have the hole saw spinning quite fast and dont force it through ,let it cut its way through.trim the edges of the hole up with a stanley knife and away you go. done it a few times and every time it's certainly stressful but when you do it you wonder what you were panicking aboutthe reason you dont go from the inside is if there are any stickers on the outside where your drilling your likely to rip them as the saw breaks throughYes definatly GOT to drill thats why ive took nearly a year to decide.It's not really for what happens in a crash as i dont think it matters if you go down at speed the bikes going to be knackered anyway.My mates just dropped his bike outside his garage thought his sidestand was down and it wasn't "DOH"he's got away with a broken clutch lever and a small scratch on his bar end(not bell end LOL) His R&G crash post and front fork sliders have a very small scuff you wouldn't know if he didn't show you.So thats whats made my mind upto put some on if that had been my bike i'd have been paying out for new panels or respraying them..Great Info Bladerunner thanks M8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichardH 0 Posted February 2, 2012 I have them on the Bandit for the same reason, if they fit the strom I will use them on that or buy some more, well worth it,IMHO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dick65 0 Posted February 2, 2012 i got some for the Ace,not r&g's and didnt have to drill the fairing thank god,get some pics up when youve done it m8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davehutch-hutchs 0 Posted February 2, 2012 yes got them on the bandit & the king for that very reason Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpyowl 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @dick65 wrote:i got some for the Ace,not r&g's and didnt have to drill the fairing thank god,get some pics up when youve done it m8 Will do Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fr499y 0 Posted February 2, 2012 had R&G's on the sv, dropped it when stationary, didnt mark a single thing =]got solid billet ones on the zed, but i know if i drop the zed they will bend the frame and not "slide" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lee1 1 Posted February 2, 2012 well worth having and your right jim you do need to drill the fairing the ones I had on the 600 saved my engine when I ran into the back of herb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madsod 0 Posted February 2, 2012 no one made them for my RF900 so i got zxr 1400 kawasaki one's cut the bolts down retap . and cut 1" OF the alu tube done this as they stuck out to far , had to drill the side vents . but all in all it worked out fine , Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichardH 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @madsod wrote:no one made them for my RF900 so i got zxr 1400 kawasaki one's cut the bolts down retap . and cut 1" OF the alu tube done this as they stuck out to far , had to drill the side vents . but all in all it worked out fine , havent seen a king and queen seat for a while, cracking looking bike Dude Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madsod 0 Posted February 2, 2012 ITCHY wrote:@madsod wrote:no one made them for my RF900 so i got zxr 1400 kawasaki one's cut the bolts down retap . and cut 1" OF the alu tube done this as they stuck out to far , had to drill the side vents . but all in all it worked out fine , havent seen a king and queen seat for a while, cracking looking bike Dude thanks very much had the seat done by Tony archer , Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dick65 0 Posted February 2, 2012 heres mine,had to search a bit to find some suzi looks good garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichardH 0 Posted February 2, 2012 not suprized you didn't have ti drill yours Dick, that's a big hole!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dick65 0 Posted February 2, 2012 shes a big old lass rich Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichardH 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @dick65 wrote:shes a big old lass rich that would be a gash! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madsod 0 Posted February 2, 2012 ITCHY wrote:@dick65 wrote:shes a big old lass rich that would be a gash! YOU BAD BOY'S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dick65 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @madsod wrote:ITCHY wrote:@dick65 wrote:shes a big old lass rich that would be a gash! YOU BAD BOY'S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpyowl 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @dick65 wrote:shes a big old lass rich sure is quick for a fat lass Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
streetfighter 0 Posted February 2, 2012 @Grumpyowl wrote:@dick65 wrote:shes a big old lass rich sure is quick for a fat lass Thats what they all say Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Macie_UK 0 Posted February 3, 2012 @fr499y wrote:Neither. But to answer your question, from outside in would give a smoother cut, but inside out will hide if you slip.. I thought R&G's didnt need any fairing mods to fit Yeah some do. Laddos ZX6R even needs a modified coolant header tank fitting. Then again I wouldn't be without the R&Gs Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezza 0 Posted April 4, 2012 just ordered some for the new bike , how did you get on fitting these Grumpy owl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpyowl 0 Posted April 4, 2012 @jezza wrote:just ordered some for the new bike , how did you get on fitting these Grumpy owl.Mine is a gen2 is this what your getting Jezz or are you getting a gen1 ?anyway I was a bit nervous about doing this as you only get one chance.Like a lot of jobs like this it's easy if you get your P&P sorted first.I ordered a laser pen for £1.99 posted offebay.Also a 1" (25mm) hole cutter from china for £3.25 posted (the're about £15 from BQ)the hole cutter had a pilot (guide) bit included.Now the messing about.Take off 1 fairing panelset up some kind of stand (flat surface, tripod) to set up the laser pen so that it shines bang centre in the bolt head.I dont have a tripod so my chest tool box, with a tea tray and a vice set up about 3foot away so you can work without disturbing the penlight (masking tape around the light on button to keep it lit)carefully put the fairing back on mask up the area so you can accuratly mark the drilling position.Take off the fairing do not disturb the laser beam.Check the beam is still bang centre on the engine bolt.If it is take a deep breath and drill your fairing. (top tip i used a stanley knife to cut a hole out of the foam on inside of fairing)I used a round file to smooth round the hole but it was a clean cut to be honest. Engine Bolt out, replace fairing and fit crash bung.Cup of Tea and repeat other side.Like a lot off jobs it's easy when you've done a few but she's my pride and joy and I didn't want to cause an expensive .To be honest I was quite proud of myself when I'd finished as it worked perfect.I'm still debating with myself if i was to do it again would i get a slightly bigger hole cutter 28 instead 25mm.as it is very snug and no room for error.however it is a perfect fit and you can't tell there not factory fitted as was commented by a guy at Matlock who was asking about them last week (whwn we had the summer).Good look take your time it's not hard.Sorry for the long drawn out reply.Jim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezza 0 Posted April 4, 2012 great stuff , I've ordered my r&g's so when they arrive i'll try and sus them out.Got one of the last gen 1 , 5000 miles on a 08 cost was less than £6000 , totally standard one owner. pick it up saturday.........nitrous going on sunday (only joking) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpyowl 0 Posted April 4, 2012 @jezza wrote:great stuff , I've ordered my r&g's so when they arrive i'll try and sus them out.Got one of the last gen 1 , 5000 miles on a 08 cost was less than £6000 , totally standard one owner. pick it up saturday.........nitrous going on sunday (only joking)Noooooooooo got to be a TURBO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpyowl 0 Posted April 4, 2012 @jezza wrote:great stuff , I've ordered my r&g's so when they arrive i'll try and sus them out.Got one of the last gen 1 , 5000 miles on a 08 cost was less than £6000 , totally standard one owner. pick it up saturday.........nitrous going on sunday (only joking)i'm keeping mine as standard as poss Yoshi r22 end cans (gen2 cans fugly)R&G bungs and fork slidersSuzuki touring screenEssential (for me) raised HelibarsBaglux tank coverAnd I've promised the Mrs thats ALL I'M DOING Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezza 0 Posted April 5, 2012 yes ,going to only do sensible mods to this bike, r&g's , scotoiler , things like that really. Must be getting old. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dick65 0 Posted April 5, 2012 ive got a scottoiler,saves a lot of hassle m8 just remember to keep it topped up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezza 0 Posted April 8, 2012 @dick65 wrote:ive got a scottoiler,saves a lot of hassle m8 just remember to keep it topped up ordered one only to find when i picked the bike up it had a full touring kit hidde behind the numberplate, luckily the shop will take the new one back.also found a link on the r&g website which shows how to fit the bungs, also ordered the r&g 28mm saw to make things easier.http://www.rg-racing.com/browseType/Crash_Protectors/Suzuki/GSX1300R_Hayabusa/CP0063.aspxhttp://www.rg-racing.com/browseType/General_Accessories/HS0001RE.aspx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dick65 0 Posted April 8, 2012 nice one jezza i was going to do the same,then i found a scottoiler tucked in the rear side panel its one of the first types but works well enough keep us updated on the crash bungs m8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezza 0 Posted April 12, 2012 right all bits assembled , got the R&G's , got the drill bit and assembled the precision laser R&G drill bit guidance system (hi tec stuff , laser pen mounted on camera tri pod ) . gonna give it a go in the next day or so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lee1 1 Posted April 12, 2012 @jezza wrote:right all bits assembled , got the R&G's , got the drill bit and assembled the precision laser R&G drill bit guidance system (hi tec stuff , laser pen mounted on camera tri pod ) . gonna give it a go in the next day or so. Im sure you will do it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grumpyowl 0 Posted April 12, 2012 you don't need luck.just set the laser back far enough to give yourself room to work.the hardest job is faffing about taking faring on and off.off to set up laser on bolt centre,back on to mark cutting point,back off to check laser not moved,after cutting then back on again to fit bungs.The gen2 is a bugger to get on and off the first few times till you get used to it.hopefully the gen1 is simpler.if like th gen2 there is foam on the back of the fairing were the hole is to be cut, get a stanley knife and cut a circle out of the foam before you drill.take your time it's not hard Jezzai got good speed up on the cutter before letting it touch the fairing and got a good clean cut.jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites