help needed urgently

[sparky 0]

ive replace my clutch master cylinder cant seem to bleed it properly is they any one round my area who is mechanically minde who could help me

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

I will come and have a look m8 , but may not be able to get to you till Friday or Saturday , Take it you do know how to blead them ?

[sparky 0]

ive bled it it just wont take it out of gear fully

[smilinjack 0]

Have you replaced it with the same type of m/cylinder? Sometimes you can get issues with the amount of stroke if you fit a different bore cylinder. Otherwise it has to be a bleed problem as far as I can see.

[sparky 0]

yeah its exactly the same its a standard rf900 clutch master cylinder with the same dot 4 brake fluid i think its a bleed problem too was my first attempt at it lol i will take daves offer on coming to help on friday will be free tea and coffee

[lee1 1]

why did ya change it

[sparky 0]

I needed to top fluid up but the previous owner had rounded screw off and I had a spare master cylinder for the clutch so I replaced it the previous owner of my bike was an arse and he rounded every bolt the bike has

[yankeedoodle 0]

could be a dodgey seal in the new m/c?

[Grumpyowl 0]

I know this will sound daft but did you change the clutch lever over and is it seated right ?

sorry if popes dead

[lee1 1]

could be the m/c or just not bled right

[Baby B 0]

hi mate this is copied from another forum,i know it mentions brakes instead but i used this method for brakes and clutch with new lines n system n it worked after having no luck before

[Baby B 0]

oops missed paste lol..........bout says it all for me at mo
For the front brakes I'm presuming you have dual lines and not the over the fender tube.
This will be messy so have lots of clean rags about and clean any spills immediately
Remove the cap and diagphragm from the resorvoir
Have someone help you by constantly keeping the reservoir topped up;
tighten the left bleed nipple.
remove (yes remove completely) the right bleed nipple
Put your finger lightly over the open bleed hole
squeeze the brake lever and you should be able to remove your finger slightly from the bleed hole and feel air coming out.
put your finger tight on the bleed hole and release the brake lever.
repeat until fluid is coming out of the bleed hole.
insert and tighten the right bleed screw
remove the left bleed screw and repeat the above procedure.
once you have fluid present at both calipers you can proceed to bleed them a little more in the conventional fashion.
Back brake is the same but of course brake pedal instead of brake lever and only one caliper
Hope this helps you and you get it done

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

How you getting on m8 ?

[sparky 0]

I tried what you suggested about tying the lever back to handle bars over night to see if it worked but no difference I still think I have an air lock in it but see to be just going round in circles mate plus left it today as it is raining so don't want water in the brake fluid will have another play tomoz when it's dry my p/o was a right idiot to not look after such a good bike

[Batfastard 0]

Sparky.
Back bleed it mate. Empty most of the fluid out the reservoir, put a little pipe onto the nipple on the slave cyl (clutch end), open the nipple and force the fluid up into the reservoir and just watch how many bubbles come up.(a pipe on an old fairy liquid bottle will do if you are quick as it may react if left a long time)
The trouble with bleeding brakes and clutches on a bike is that the cylinders are small diameter and move only a little fluid. The bubble goes down the tube a bit with each pump and then rises back up as you release the lever, ready for the next pump. So it's just going up and down.
Try that and if you have no joy, pm me. I'm not far away.