slipper clutch ?

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

what is one and what does it mean ?

[fr499y 0]

basically causes the clutch to slip so you dont lock up the back wheel when engine breaking =D

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slipper_clutch pretty much explained there

[Grumpyowl 0]

When you change down at too high revs/speed
you don't lock up your back wheel

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

thanks lads

[madsod 0]

As had been said give the bike lots of beans and then go from say top to first straight down the box , im sure me and you don't ride like that we to old or not

[Stue11 0]

You dont want the B King doing that Dave

[XS1100 0]

Nowt new though, My 57 Norton as one well sort of,
Wile Blaging along the M69 doing great speeds the clutch slipped before the rear wheel locked up along with the engine! But it did give me that split second warning to shut off pull in the clutch and move across to a safe place like the hard shoulder,I waited a short time for the Motor to cool down and carried on to Stratford,Had a cuppa tea and a bag of chips rode it home at a more steady pace Cast Iron barrol not good at cooling down at Motorway speeds.

[dick65 0]

@XS1100 wrote:

Nowt new though, My 57 Norton as one well sort of,
Wile Blaging along the M69 doing great speeds the clutch slipped before the rear wheel locked up along with the engine! But it did give me that split second warning to shut off pull in the clutch and move across to a safe place like the hard shoulder,I waited a short time for the Motor to cool down and carried on to Stratford,Had a cuppa tea and a bag of chips rode it home at a more steady pace Cast Iron barrol not good at cooling down at Motorway speeds.

[Chadatious 0]

your king got one?

i rode a mates ninja, and i ddint like it, where the bandit had engine brakeing he had his sliper clutch on and if you dropped off the revvs it rolled like an automatic, i couldnt get on with it but good for raceing i bet.

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

yes

[Chadatious 0]

ahhh cool, mate had oen oin his first big bike, anouther ninja, he went on my bandit and kept kangarooing, couldnt ride the gears as his would roll mines would lock as he was in wrong gear.

still nice to have if you want to use it,

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

@Chadatious wrote:

ahhh cool, mate had oen oin his first big bike, anouther ninja, he went on my bandit and kept kangarooing, couldnt ride the gears as his would roll mines would lock as he was in wrong gear.

still nice to have if you want to use it,

dont think i have a option

[Chadatious 0]

is it contantly on then?

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

@Chadatious wrote:

is it contantly on then?

as far as i know

[Chadatious 0]

@Davehutch wrote:

@Chadatious wrote:

is it contantly on then?

as far as i know

you not got any manuals?

and im sure tony may know?

could stay on as the engine brake may be too much for the bike

[Fallen Angel 0]

They operate by a ball bearing and face cam affair which lift the clutch actuating mechanism as the engine braking is transmitted back through the clutch. They work exceptionally well with big 4 stroke singles in a race situation but do require setting up correctly which can go as far as re-profiling the face cam. I'm not sure of their value on the road but very useful on the track, depends on just how kamikaze your down change technique is.
I'm thinking of replacing the clutch on my FZR with one as the OEM basket is made of metal having the properties of cheese. FZR clutches are known for exploding and totalling the motor and dumping cheese, sorry aluminium shavings into the oil causing con rod failure.

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

@Fallen Angel wrote:

They operate by a ball bearing and face cam affair which lift the clutch actuating mechanism as the engine braking is transmitted back through the clutch. They work exceptionally well with big 4 stroke singles in a race situation but do require setting up correctly which can go as far as re-profiling the face cam. I'm not sure of their value on the road but very useful on the track, depends on just how kamikaze your down change technique is.
I'm thinking of replacing the clutch on my FZR with one as the OEM basket is made of metal having the properties of cheese. FZR clutches are known for exploding and totalling the motor and dumping cheese, sorry aluminium shavings into the oil causing con rod failure.

you know stuff

[Chadatious 0]

@Fallen Angel wrote:

They operate by a ball bearing and face cam affair which lift the clutch actuating mechanism as the engine braking is transmitted back through the clutch. They work exceptionally well with big 4 stroke singles in a race situation but do require setting up correctly which can go as far as re-profiling the face cam. I'm not sure of their value on the road but very useful on the track, depends on just how kamikaze your down change technique is.
I'm thinking of replacing the clutch on my FZR with one as the OEM basket is made of metal having the properties of cheese. FZR clutches are known for exploding and totalling the motor and dumping cheese, sorry aluminium shavings into the oil causing con rod failure.

im breaking a fzr and the clutch has seized, hope its not this

[Tony nitrous 0]

@Davehutch wrote:

what is one and what does it mean ?

It mean's the B-King has a crap clutch !

BTL (Back Torque Limiter) stop's you locking
the rear wheel when downshifting.

It also gives the Busa/King a worse clutch
when used hard, or at the drags.
You lose the smooth progressive feel that a
good clutch should have.

Really, IMO its like B-mode. if your ready
to ride a B-King, you shouldnt need one.
Who stamp's down 4 gears in one go?

Mr Safe and Sensible on the street who's not
using his bikes potential may not notice, but
there are several kits to remove the BTL
and its on my "to do list"

http://www.brocksperformance.com/Ultra-Light-Billet-Clutch-Mod+I270461+C29.aspx

[Davehutch-hutchs 0]

@Tony nitrous wrote:

@Davehutch wrote:

what is one and what does it mean ?

It mean's the B-King has a crap clutch !

BTL (Back Torque Limiter) stop's you locking
the rear wheel when downshifting.

It also gives the Busa/King a worse clutch
when used hard, or at the drags.
You lose the smooth progressive feel that a
good clutch should have.

Really, IMO its like B-mode. if your ready
to ride a B-King, you shouldnt need one.
Who stamp's down 4 gears in one go?

Mr Safe and Sensible on the street who's not
using his bikes potential may not notice, but
there are several kits to remove the BTL
and its on my "to do list"

http://www.brocksperformance.com/Ultra-Light-Billet-Clutch-Mod+I270461+C29.aspx

[Tony nitrous 0]

http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Hayabusa_Ultra_Clutch_Mod_Brock_p/hayabusa%20ultra%20clutch%20mod.htm

[Fallen Angel 0]

you know stuff

Ta Dave

[Fallen Angel 0]

@Chadatious wrote:

@Fallen Angel wrote:

They operate by a ball bearing and face cam affair which lift the clutch actuating mechanism as the engine braking is transmitted back through the clutch. They work exceptionally well with big 4 stroke singles in a race situation but do require setting up correctly which can go as far as re-profiling the face cam. I'm not sure of their value on the road but very useful on the track, depends on just how kamikaze your down change technique is.
I'm thinking of replacing the clutch on my FZR with one as the OEM basket is made of metal having the properties of cheese. FZR clutches are known for exploding and totalling the motor and dumping cheese, sorry aluminium shavings into the oil causing con rod failure.

im breaking a fzr and the clutch has seized, hope its not this

Nah, don't worry. the clutch plates on FZR's stick together after they have stood for any length of time. To free them off just stick the bike on a paddock stand with the engine running, pull the clutch lever in, snick the bike into second gear and gently apply the rear brake while keeping the revs up enough to stop the motor stalling. If the bikes not running don't worry the plates will peel apart quite easily once you take the clutch to pieces.
Which FZR is it you're breaking and roughly where are you as I might be interested in a few bits as I'm in the process of sorting my 1000RU out for the summer.

[streetfighter 0]

This has been a very good read everyone keep it up I never understood anything about the slipper clutch neither

[fr499y 0]

They are pretty good, the zed's got a BTL which i gotta say, comes in handy when ya hammering the gears

[Tony nitrous 0]

Never seen the need for one.

I grew up on the original GSX's, Z1000's,
Katana's etc. You learnt how to ride them.
I still ride my Busa and B-King as I would
the Bandit or GSX11. If you did something
stupid, you found out it hurt!

Maybe some bikes / manufacturers are better
than others. The big Suzuki's dont seem to
wear theirs well.

Busa's/Kings launch well if you keep your
rev's high, weight forward and then feed
the clutch in, but the stock clutch could
be a lot better. That's why they do the
Brock removal kits.