darkember

Buel ceased production last year. As said before HD are supplying parts but that will also cease sometime in the near future. Check this site:

http://www.buell.com/en_US/home.html

Will hopefully get to the Cardiff one Junction 32 Asda services

Home safe aswell. Great day even with the dampness. Some lovely roads. Will need to do another time on a warm day.

Bike got a well earned sponge down & spray will polish next week. Did some fuel calculations & overall was supprised to find I was getting 45-50 to the gallon. Must be my gentle throttle use

Great meeting you all roll on next year

If your after a Vtwin go jap they are cheap & reliable. Also Buel is out of business & I believe HD will only support them for another 8-10 years.

If you do get one put it in a box & leave it there. May be worth a bob or 2 as a classic in the future.

Nice bike m8 like the colour

Hi there & welcome sorry m8 I'm all the way down in Wales

I'll be there it looking better & better for Sunday weather wise

welcome welcome welcome

ITCHY wrote:

Got my birthday prezzie from my two gorgeous lesbo friends,Don't quite understand though, they got me a Rolex?
When they asked what I wanted I said I just wanna watch.

Humm maybe they want u as piggy in the middle

@Stue11 wrote:

[size=18]Right then folks a decision as been made, myself Pike37 and day101 have decided, no matter what the weather does sunday the ride is on, so if you feel the same folks just post on this thread by Saturday afternoon to let me know for sure, much appreciated folks and ile hopefully look forward to meeting some old and new members this coming weekend [/size]

I'll be there. Hehe you'll hear me well before I arrive

My view is this will possibly be the last major ride out for the year. We will have the winter to strip down & clean everything. Lets try & make the effort

It looks like it is improving for Sunday at the mo. A light shower or 2 wont stop me

Checking the Synoptics & Sunday is looking quite calm inbetween 2 fronts.

http://www.mwis.org.uk/synoptic.php

This can change & I'm hoping that High will squeeze northwards

I hate you soooo jealous

Bet you love the power delivery difference

welcome

Good on you mate. The hardest obstical is the first one & that's realizing there is a problem. Only then can it be sorted . Hope you'll be there on Sunday.

welcome

Gosh that is scary. All the best to him & get well soon.

One thing is for sure it will make him wise to the fact that he is not indestructable and accidents do hurt.

@Stue11 wrote:

Good work Wil fairplay to you, hopefully cya next weekend on her

Weather permiting I'll be there

This is the stuff Trebor gets all hot & flustered over

V Power Different vibrations

@flange wrote:

I sold the Bandit to try a big v twin but ended up with this.

Nice bike However did u get to try a Vtwin?? If not u can try mine next time we meet

Decided to strip the bike to check the valve clearances on the rear cylinder, main reason was to cure a slight oil leak on the APE CCT. Here are some photos of the job. Note this is a 2002 F2 model with the 19l tank. You will see there is no tap so I had to be a little adaptive.



View before work began



Seat removed




Disconnecting fuel sender unit



Loosening pivot bolt at the rear of the tank



Removing front bolts



Support the tank using a piece of ply, note I use the tank bolts as added slippage protection



View under the tank note 2002 model and no shutoff valve.



Adapted tool to clamp off the fuel line. Note, have as little fuel as possible in the tank. I had 1 bar on the fuel gauge



Fuel line clamped off. Note the square rubber tank protector (one on each side) in the foreground of the above photo can fall off, don't loose them.
Next follow the main fuel delivery line from the left of the clamping device round to the fuel vacum assembly. Unscrew the fuel line clamp & pull off the fuel hose, there will be a little fuel spillage so have a rag at the ready. Then pull off the vacum & overflow pipes from the bottom of the tank. Those are the 2 pipes still attached to the tank avove the clamping device in the above photo. Note, I have alread removed the nut at the end of the pivot bolt ready for tank removal. Support the tank, remove the pivot bolt , and lift away. Place the tank somewhere safe & I plugged the fuel delivery pipe using a 12mm bolt wrapped with some PTFE tape, this allowed me to remove the clamping device so as not to damage the pipe any further.



Photo of the tank removed showing the vacum assembly including both main carb fuel feed pipes and the small vacum control pipe.



Airbox lid removed showing air filter. Note you can remove this lid & change the air filter without removing the fuel tank by having it pivoted virtically as shown earlier, please have an assistant available to support the tank as you remove the airbox lid just in case.



Air filter removed showing trumpets. Note: long trumpet at the rear & small at the front they are arrowed to the airbox housing as to correct orientation.



Trumpets removed & carb mouths secured against foreign bodies falling in.



Airbox housing is secured with 8 bolts which are thread locked in. These have now been removed. Now comes the plumping bit. The following are photos of various pipes that need to be removed that can be done in any order. Accessability & small hands are an advantage here.







Finally




Airbox off. Next up is to remove the fuel vacum assembly




No need to remove all the fuel lines I supported it with a shoe lace attached to the wing mirror



The next sequence of photos is an aid to ensure you remove parts in a particular order so as to repeat in the re-assembly process



Remove rubber protector




Disconnect & remove rear cylinder pair valve pipe.



Now you have reached the rear cylinder rocker cover. Before removing first remove the altenator center plug. (AS STATED IN OTHER THREADS THIS IS MADE FROM A VERY SOFT ALLU & CAN BE A SOD :Argue 1: ) I tapped mine back & forth & it eventually gave way. You may want a spare ready just in case you need to bastardise it off. When replacing it use some grease on the threads this will help removal next time round. Then remove the timing access plug to the left of the center plug. NOW REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS FOR BOTH CYLINDERS & COVER EXPOSED HOLES.





Next remove the 4 rockercover retaining bolts



Note: the orientation of the washers the way UP is clearly stated on them. I also smear them with engine oil when replaced.

Next you need to find TDC for the REAR cylinder please refer to the CCT thread for this proceedure. Below are photos of what TDC looks like for the REAR cylinder looking at the cam lobes/sprockets & timing window. Note (ALWAYS TURN THE MOTOR COUNTER CLOCKWISE USING A 17MM SOCKET ON THE BOLT IN THE CENTER OF THE ALTENATOR HOUSING).





Reassembly is the reverse of what you have seen. This is as far as I went. My valve clearences are a shade on the tight side but have been reliably informed that they can wait for the the next workshop. I also stopped the leak on my APE CCT.



I hope this will help some of you out there I do like photos as they speak a thousand words. Happy spanners

welcome welcome