Bezzer

I'll be having a trip out as well, going the A53 Market Drayton way, you going that way or from Whitchurch end Rob??

You're not kidding ,welcome Tony

That's top price for wheels, take it that's with blasting and all preparation included.

No special tools required IF you do it in the right order, which is.... 1. Just crack the top nut while the legs are still in the yokes, much easier to hold,not slip etc but just a touch as you don't want to lose tension in the forks at all. 2.With the forks still fully tensioned remove the allen headed damper rod bolt that is recessed right underneath at the bottom of the forks. If you don't do it that way the bolt just spins and you need the tool to hold it on the inside. Just follow the manual and you'll be fine but make sure you get the Suzuki OE seals, aftermarket ones can be crap and leak in a short time, best to do them the once with the proper seals for next to no difference in price..

Got to be T.E.Lawrence , wouldn't mind having the money to have a Brough Superior in the garage.

You say you've got a Haynes. read the fork seals replacement and all will be clear.... Just make sure you remember to undo the damper rod bolt at the base of the forks while you've still got the forks assembled and under pressure, if you don't do it then it spins and you can't get it out without a "special tool" either Suzuki or homemade. You will need new fork seals and fresh fork oil as you empty all the old out, it will seem like a new bike when you've done it.

They'll be the same length but I wouldn't bet on the banjos all being the same, they're not on Gen1 6 and 12s. If the lines are cheap enough you can always replace the odd banjo that doesn't fit (M10x1.0 for M10x1.25 or vice versa) You manage to fit the fairing all OK Gav?

Only problem is Potato Chips means crisps over there, not proper chips .

Bummer, but that's what you get going with new fangled high tech water cooled fuel injected engines.

The Mercs and others only flash in emergency braking, UK law says they must be constant, I reckon there's no problem as they can argue that emergency braking = ABS which means your brakes are rapidly coming on and off so technically the lights are only lighting when the brake is on, that they are coming on and off means the light flashes. If that's the case then that still makes aftermarket ones that flash whenever you apply the brakes illegal, but they reckon the law will be changing to allow them.

...and the best thing is you never forget or get mixed up, started on a RH change but hadn't rode one for over 30 years when I took a test ride on a T150 Trident a year or so back and didn't even have to think about it, didn't have any problem at all, just seemed natural somehow.

No you can't, commiserations babe, but someone has to look after him and yes we have met, chillin' out on the OSS stand at the Raven a year or two back

If you've fitted an aftermarket can as well then you're going to need it rejetting as you will be running lean. If it's a K&N panel filter then it'll want a stage1/2, if K&N pods it's stage 3. Get a Stage3 kit and it's has the smaller stuff in it for a stage 1 then you can also use it for stage3 as and when you need to. Filter, can and jetting should see a nice increase in power.

Nice one didn't realise you'd already loosened the bolt to start with

Had a Blackbird once and worked on others for mates, luckily never had a problem as I always slacken the bolt first before taking the top off because once you take the top off you never end up with enough pressure to hold the tube to undo it even if you replace everything again as you've found out. All forks have a special tool to hold the tube but I've never seen the 'bird one it's probably a tube with a notch at the bottom to lock the tube similar to the Bandit 1200 one. Sorted a 'bird one for a mate who'd forgot to slacken it first by the self tapper method - wrap something round the leg to protect it, piece of plastic tube or similar, screw in 2 or 3 self tappers into the seal evenly spaced then use pliers/pincers to pull the seal out, warming the area up beforehand helps to loosen/ease removal. Hate doing it that way but needs must and it does work jdoes leave you open to scratching the tubes if you aren't careful. You won't get all the old oil out and clean the insides before you replace the seals but you will remember to loosen the bolt first next time

I haven't got a car Missus has a Rav4 and only time I get to drive is towing the van, hate cars with a passion and avoid them as much as I can.

Best and worst - Clapton, seen him about half a dozen times over the years, usually brilliant but the last time was at Birmingham NIA a few years ago and it was the most non atmospheric, boring gig I've ever been to. Had heard that can happen with him on a couldn't give a toss night but the first one I'd witnessed and haven't bothered with him since.

If it's the same as a Gen2 then the vacuum feed is 5-6mm and the fuel pipe is 10mm

Life's full of "what ifs" and there are so many extra ones if you ride a bike even at low speeds. Shit happens as probably most of us have found out at one time or another, be aware of what you're doing and the consequences yes, but thinking too much or worrying about it and you've lost all the enjoyment a bike gives you.

might be, though I shouldn't be admitting to knowing you in case anyone is watching

...and the fact you're a pussy

170ish and still accelerating on a Blackbird but didn't dare take my eyes off the road again to see what it finally topped out at, on my own private test track of course

Whenever I can I use local dealers and shops for bike bits especially service stuff, they're usually a touch dearer but it supports local business but after yesterdays experience I give in and will use online from now on. Went to DK Motorcycles as unfortunately they are now the official Suzuki dealer for the area. Wanted plugs and filters, they'd got the plugs and OE oil filter but only do air filters to order!!!. FFS 600 and 1200 Bandits use the same filter and together must be the most popular type and an officlal dealer can't even be bothered to stock them, you'd think they'd at least have the odd one and just replace each time. So on to Bassetts a general bike shop that I've had OE Suzuki stuff from in the past but you're always guaranteed to be served by an arsehole who tries to show you his "superior" knowledge. "Have you got an air filter for a K4 1200 Bandit please" Got his book out and said "What year?" "It's a K4 model" "But what's the registration year?" "That doesn't matter it's an actual K4, 04 model" "Yes it does, it could be a re registered grey import" "Err no it couldn't, a grey import is a bike that wasn't originally imported here, you mean a parallel import, but that doesn't matter a K4 model Bandit is a K4 Bandit wherever it's from,if it was a late registered import it could be the wrong year for bits if you go by the plate" At that he walked off chuntering and came back with a filter box with "early model Bandit" written on it. I just said "That won't fit mate and walked out" So that's it for me online shopping from now on, ordered the air filter when I got in and got it this morning. It's no wonder shops are shutting one after the other you'd think they would make some effort to get and keep a customer base.

Suave

I've been looking for but can't find the one I've got of you the first time you ran the bike on the dyno on Streetfighters Sunday at the The Raven a couple of years ago Leigh. The look on your face was priceless as they gunned it